27th November 2024

Dawn was breaking as we made our way to breakfast. Through the windows of the buffet restaurant, the dark silhouette of the mountains loomed behind Santa Cruz, the capital of La Palma. The ship had already docked, the necessary paperwork had been handed over to the port authorities, and the captain had authorised passengers to disembark.

I was set to embark on a five-hour hike across the island’s volcanic terrain. Originally, we had planned to do the hike together. Still, after the demands of a strenuous trek through a Tenerife lava tube a few days earlier, Sue decided her ankles and knees wouldn’t hold up and withdrew from the excursion.

I disembarked Azura at 8.30 am and, along with thirteen other intrepid passengers, boarded the minibus, which departed half an hour later. The drive to our starting point, the Centro de Visitantes Volcán San Antonio, took around forty minutes. From there, we began our descent along the slopes of Volcán de San Antonio, pausing several times on the well-maintained cinder path to photograph the small settlements and banana plantations clinging to the coastline far below.

The track was steep, winding through a striking landscape dotted with cacti, succulents, and the occasional solitary pine. Underfoot, the loose cinder crunched with each step, making it hard to judge whether the surface would hold firm or suddenly give way.

We skirted around the Volcán de Teneguía, briefly diverting from our route to visit an unusual buff-coloured rocky outcrop that stood in stark contrast to the surrounding black volcanic landscape. Several large, flat boulders here were etched with carvings left by the island’s original African inhabitants. The purpose of these engraved squiggles remains unknown, though they are believed to have been made by ancient goat herders.

As we resumed our descent from the rock formation, we gained an unexpected companion, a small dog that appeared from nowhere and stayed with us for the remainder of the journey down the island.

Our path now took us along the Cañones de Lava del Teneguía, tracing the route of the lava flow from its most recent eruption. The descent became increasingly steep, requiring extra caution to avoid slipping on the jagged rocks that could easily inflict a nasty cut. As the terrain tested our endurance, our small group began to stretch out, with gravity and the unforgiving surface taking their toll on ankles and knees alike.

Eventually, we reached a road that crossed our path, and I was relieved to see the minibus waiting at the roadside. From there, we had a choice: continue downhill on foot for another 200 metres, or ride in comfort to our final destination, the Fuencaliente Lighthouse. My knees made the decision for me, and I climbed aboard the minibus.

At Fuencaliente, two lighthouses stand side by side, accompanied by the Salinas de Fuencaliente (salt pans) and a small restaurant. Unfortunately, my attempt to order a much-needed, thirst-quenching beer was thwarted; it was table service only, and every table was taken!

While waiting for the rest of the walkers to arrive, I explored and photographed the salt pans, pondering the curious presence of two lighthouses at such a remote spot. Not long after, I boarded the minibus for the return journey.

We arrived back at Azura promptly at 2 pm. After dropping my rucksack off in the cabin, I grabbed a quick lunch in the buffet restaurant before heading out again to catch up with Sue. She had disembarked earlier at 9.20 am, joining a line of passengers from both cruise ships docked in port, and had shuffled the 1km into Santa Cruz.

Sue spent her morning wandering through the cobbled streets of the Old Town, admiring the charming mix of colourful wooden and brick buildings, many adorned with traditional balconies. She enjoyed the atmosphere, noting the appealing blend of history and vibrancy. A visit to the Renaissance-style Town Hall and the Church of El Salvador left her particularly impressed, not only by their stunning architecture, but also by the remarkable cleanliness of the city streets.

Before our evening meal, we attended a performance of Cinderella at the theatre. Staged by just four actors, the pantomime was tremendous fun, prompting the mostly elderly audience to regress gleefully to their childhood and join in with enthusiasm. “Oh yes, they did!”

Later, we enjoyed a late dinner in the Meridian Restaurant, seated at a large table for eight. Afterwards, we returned to the theatre for a superb performance by the ship’s resident singers and dancers, the Headliners.

28th November 2024

Azura was off the coast of Fuerteventura as we enjoyed a late breakfast in the buffet restaurant. By the time we’d finished, the ship had docked, and the necessary disembarkation formalities had been completed. Unfortunately, as was the case elsewhere in Spain, the island’s transport workers were on strike, meaning no buses were operating, including those arranged through the ship’s excursion programme.

Having visited before, we knew the island offered little beyond sandy beaches and a spot of shopping, so we had only planned a light stroll around the capital, Puerto del Rosario. After disembarking, we joined the majority of passengers heading to the nearby Playa del Pozo beach, snapped a few photos, and then made our way into town.

We paused for a rest and some shade at the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary. However, as I went to take a seat, I tripped over a concealed kneeling board and fell with a clatter, bruising my ribs. Fortunately, that was the extent of the damage; it could have been far worse.

Feeling somewhat recovered, we continued with a leisurely wander along the bustling main street, browsing stalls and shops. We even picked up a selection box of Fuerteventura Christmas Ales from a street vendor before heading back to the ship for lunch.

The afternoon was spent at a relaxed pace aboard Azura, which slipped quietly away from her berth at 5 pm, bound for Tenerife and a glorious sunset over the Atlantic. That evening, we enjoyed our final dinner in the Meridian Restaurant before returning to our cabin to pack for the following day’s departure and journey home to the UK.

The evening’s entertainment featured a talented quartet of Dutch female singers, who delivered an enjoyable medley of popular hits. After the show, we placed our packed suitcases outside the cabin door. If the onboard literature is to be believed, we won’t see them again until they reappear on the carousel at Birmingham Airport. Fingers crossed!